Print Issue: March 14, 2002

Americans In Rome Continue Timeless Lenten Tradition

By Theodore Book, Special To The Bulletin

ROME-At six o'clock in the morning a calm stillness fills the streets of Rome. Pastel colors begin to trace the outlines of clouds as the black sky acquires a shade of deep purple. The quiet is broken only by the sound of feet tramping on the cobblestone streets and by the low murmur of a voice reciting the rosary: "...blessed is the fruit of thy womb, Jesus," and then by the reply of many voices in prayer, "Holy Mary, mother of God..."

It is Lent in Rome, and seminarians of the North American College, together with American pilgrims and residents of the city, are continuing an ancient tradition that dates back to the third century. Each day in Lent, they will set out early in the morning and walk through the narrow pre-dawn streets to offer the Mass in one of Rome's many basilicas. A different church is set for each day, according to a list composed around the time of St. Gregory the Great. Today, their destination is St. Peter in Chains, a basilica on the Esquiline hill that was built to house the chains that bound St. Peter as he awaited his martyrdom.

As the group files out from beneath a narrow arch into the broad piazza before the basilica, one can imagine the great popes of the early Church coming here on this very day as they made their own penitential journey towards the glory of Easter. Indeed, the sacramentary of St. Gregory the Great dedicates this day to St. Peter in Chains - it is entitled "Feria II ad Sanctum Petrum ad Vincula" - Monday at St. Peter in Chains. In fact, the very prayers of his sacramentary, many of which have been carried down in the liturgy to the present day, make reference to this church. The closing prayer for mass reads, "Loosen, we beseech Thee, O Lord, the chains of our sins," making reference to St. Peter's chains, which have been kept here, under the altar, since the second century.

Before the mass, the pilgrims kneel in silent prayer as the priests vest in the back of the church and go to take their places in the apse behind the altar. As the procession begins to make its way down the aisle, the chanting of the opening antiphon brings everyone to his feet. The mass is not long, but solemn and reverent, with most people coming forward devoutly to receive the eucharist. After the closing prayer, people kneel to make their thanksgivings, and then go to venerate St. Peter's chains, or to admire the beautiful artwork that adorns the church, including Michelangelo's famous statue of Moses. As they finally make their way out of the doors of the basilica, dawn has already broken, and the daily bustling of life in the city has begun. Each person goes off to breakfast, or to his work or school, but they will all gather again tomorrow morning, to walk to the church of St. Anastasia where they will again take part in the eucharistic sacrifice as they make their way onwards toward the feast of the resurrection.

Theodore Book is a seminarian for the Archdiocese of Atlanta. He is in his fourth year at North American College, Rome.