By Monsignor Noel C. Burtenshaw

Dublin- When John Paul II touches down on Irish soil at Dublin’s International Airport on September 29, it will mark the first visit of a reigning pope to historically Catholic Ireland. There is tense joy and excitement circulating among hearts all over the tiny island. The traditional “hundred thousand welcomes” will be multiplied over and over to greet the popular pontiff.

John Paul comes to Ireland at the invitation of the Irish hierarchy. This year commemorates the one hundredth anniversary of the Knock Shrine apparition. On August 21, 1879, the Blessed Virgin, along with St. Joseph and St. John, appeared to the villagers of the rural west coast place of pilgrimage. The pope will offer an outdoor Mass at the Shrine and over half a million people are expected to participate.

In the capitol city, where the Holy Father will stay, another outdoor liturgy is being planned. This will take place in Dublin’s famous Phoenix Park, a huge open public park well known to recreation minded citizens. A million people are expected to participate in this spectacular Mass.

Dubliners are already recalling the last religious spectacle held in “the Park.” It was the Mass of the Eucharistic Congress held in Dublin in 1932. One old city dweller recalled “the sweet tones of John McCormick’s singing at that beautiful Mass of the Congress.”

Security for the visit is already being planned. All leaves for police and armed forces have been cancelled. Not since the visit of President Kennedy in 1963 have such strong security measures been planned.

John Paul will stay in Dublin at the newly constructed Apostolic Nunciature situated just north of the city. The residence and offices of Apostolic Nuncio Archbishop Aulbrandi were recently built replacing the old residence, for many years situated in the Phoenix Park. The pontiff will helicopter each day from this residence to his meetings with the Irish people.

The Irish hierarchy have hired four huge helicopters for the pope and his entourage. Along with traveling press and staff, it is expected that four or five cardinals will travel with the pope. Mentioned are American Cardinals Cooke, Cody and Krol. Vatican Secretary of State, Cardinal Benelli, is also expected to be present along with England’s Cardinal Hume, a personal friend of the Irish Cardinal O’Fiaich.

Obviously the pope’s daylight hours will be filled with Liturgical services, travel and meeting people. His evenings will also be spent in pastoral ministry. The Vatican has informed the Irish government that the time after dark will not be free for receptions or meetings with government officials.

Pope John Paul’s evenings have been set aside for pastoral visits to three categories of people - the chronic sick, the aged and the mentally and physically handicapped.

But there is one portion of the island the visiting pope will not see. That, of course, is Northern Ireland, which is officially British soil. Ironically, the principle Archdiocese of Ireland is situated in this partitioned Ulster Province - the Archdiocese of Armagh, Thomas O’Fiaich, who received the cardinal’s Red Hat in the last consistory, would very much welcome a visit of the traveling pope across the border, but no invitation has been extended by the British government.

Obviously, for security reasons, the invitation will not be extended. Northern Ireland, a province no larger than the State of Connecticut, is a place of daily conflict and violence as guerilla war continues between the IRA seeking union with Southern Ireland and the Protestant forces wishing to remain in union with England.

Bombs explode in shopping centers, snipers lay in wait for army patrols, land mines and booby traps are deliberately detonated. Almost 15,000 British troops attempt to keep order now. Protection and security for the pope would require greater forces and obviously the London government would rather not face a crisis of this magnitude. So, there will be no visit to Armagh, the historic spot where St. Patrick began his mission and founded the Irish Church in the 5th century.

There is great disappointment among groups of Protestants and Catholics working for peace and reconciliation. “We have written the pope,” says peace leader Mairead Corrigan, “and asked him to come. We need his reconciling influence and his words of encouragement.” It was hoped that an ecumenical meeting of the heads of all Christian Churches would take place in Armagh during the visit. However, that suggestion quickly disappeared when some non-Catholic leaders announced their intention not to attend.

Dr. William Craig, Presbyterian Moderator for Ireland, announced that he did not wish to meet the pope and “if invited I will not attend.” Dr. Ian Paisley, head of the Free Presbyterian Church and leader of the Democratic Unionist Party, not only refused to consider attending but threatened to lead “massive demonstrations” should Pope John Paul cross the border.

So, in reality, the pilgrim pontiff will descend on a tiny island that is two nations. One he will find straining to welcome him with joyous public demonstrations. The other threatening his presence and perhaps even his person.

As John Paul II leaves Ireland for a six day visit to the U.S. and the United Nations, he will take with him memories, some joyful, some sorrowful, of his three day visit to Ireland - a land of religious divisions.